We got up bright and early on Saturday morning in order to catch the first "colectivo" (which is kind of a shuttle van/shared taxi sort of thing) to Chichen Itza from Valladolid. I had read that they line up across from the bus station and the first ones leave at 7:15. When we got there, there was only one small colectivo (a car, not a van), but luckily, my brother Michael speaks Spanish fluently since he served his mission in Mexico, so he was able to talk to the driver and have him call up another colectivo--a large van this time. When he arrived, all 13 of us piled in. It was about a 40 minute drive to the ruin site, and unfortunately, the van did NOT have A/C (I had read that the colectivos generally do, but whatever.) Michael talked to the guy in Spanish as we drove and arranged to have him come pick us back up at about 11:30 or something like that, which was nice because we didn't have to worry about finding another colectivo to come back.
We wanted to be there right when C.I. opened because that way we could escape the intense heat and bigger crowds of mid-day. Because of the swine flu scare, though, there wasn't much in the way of crowds to worry about! But, we were VERY grateful that we came early because by the time we left around noon, it was EXTREMELY hot. The temperature was in the high nineties, with tons of humidity.
So when we arrived, there was almost nobody there. The first thing we did was load up on the sunscreen. My niece Anna found this extremely traumatic for some reason. Matthew took some pictures of this first excitement of the day, and then snapped a brilliant shot of Anna looking defeated and dejected, having been forced by her stone-hearted parents to go through the horrendous ordeal of putting on sunscreen despite her defiant stand.
We went through the line and bought our tickets, then walked down a little path leading to the ruins.
Then Heidi showed us a trick she had heard from some friends who had been there before--if you stand in front of the temple and clap your hands, the echo comes back sounding like a bird cry.
Sadly, you are no longer allowed to climb to the top of El Castillo, so we had to be content to just observe it from the bottom.
But observe it we did! There is actually a huge amount of other ruins in Chichen Itza as well--several other temples, an ancient Mayan ball court, a sacred cenote (which is a pool created by an underground river and a collapsed cave), and lots of other stuff.
We also discovered that the Mayans must have invented tic-tac-toe, because we found some carvings of x's and o's in a grid. Looks like o's won this game!
But, we were pretty much bushed by that time, so it was all for the best I suppose. If this trip had been just me and Kevin, I'm sure I would have stayed a bit longer and also gone to see some other nearby ruins (where you *could* still climb the pyramids), but this was a family trip and the point was not just to sight-see, so I contented myself with what we did see.
The Mayan people who lived at C.I. were obsessed with human sacrifice, and this is definitely reflected in the architecture.
We saw a stone statue of a soon-to-be sacrificial victim, and carvings of birds and snakes about to eat human hearts that had just been ripped from their bodies.
We saw a stone statue of a soon-to-be sacrificial victim, and carvings of birds and snakes about to eat human hearts that had just been ripped from their bodies.
There was a huge wall of carved skulls, and some carvings showing warriors holding severed heads of their defeated enemies. In the sacred cenote, archaeologists found jewelry and gold and many, many skeletons of human sacrifices that had been thrown in the pool--many of which were children. Even the ball court was kind of tainted, because the loser (or possibly the winner--they're not sure) of the bounce-the-rubber-ball-through-the-hoop-without-your hands game were sacrificed to the gods too. Ugh! That was fairly creepy to think about. Mostly, I tried not to.
The ball court was quite impressive to see, though.
When it was time, we piled back into the colectivo and headed back to Valladolid. We had to check out of the hotel by 1pm, so we started packing up. I noticed that we had made it back in time to catch the 1pm bus rather than the later one we were planning on, so we hurried up and checked out and headed straight to the bus station.
My mom and I had stopped at a bakery after we bought the bus tickets, and we bought a bunch of bread and these pizza-like things filled with cheese and ham, but with a layer of sugar dusted on the top. (The lady at the counter was VERY suprised when I told her "todos!"--all of them! I tried to explain that we were buying for our big family and were not just huge pigs, but I have no idea if she understood what I was trying to say in Spanish.) They looked a bit strange, but they were quite tasty! We ate them on the bus. The bus ride was pretty long--about 2.75 hours. The seats were very comfy, but the ride was pretty bumpy on these smaller back-roads.
We arrived at Playa del Carmen, which is where the ferry to Cozumel leaves from. To my dismay, the bus had taken us to the downtown bus station rather than the one right near the ferry docks, which is where I had thought it would go. So, we hailed three taxis and piled all our luggage in (a man on a tricycle thing tried to convince us to hire him to pedal the luggage over, but we managed to fit it all in the trunks.) We booked it on over to the ferry pier, and I asked if we were too late to buy tickets for the 4pm ferry. (The ferries were only running every 2 hours instead of hourly, due to decreased demand from the swine flu scare). She said, "It leaves in 4 minutes." I said, "okay, can we buy them?" She asked how many, and I said 13. She looked at me like I was crazy. I looked behind me and saw most of my family was still not there yet. "The rest are coming!" I said. She sold them to me, and I frantically motioned my family to hurry up, and we made it onto the ferry barely before they left. We had some trouble finding seats, and a lot of us had to sit by ourselves in random middle seats, but at least we made it!
We were running about 4 hours ahead of schedule at this point! I called the people we rented the villa from while I was on the ferry and explained that we were going to be early. He said we'd have to hail our own taxi since they couldn't be at the pier that fast, but that he would have someone there to let us in.
Once we got off the ferry and found our luggage (which was quite the fiasco--they really need to figure out a more orderly system for luggage collection, but I'll not go into that), we hailed a couple of big taxi vans and headed off to Villa Rosmar.
We were VERY happy to arrive and turn on the A/C and collapse on the couches. The place was beautiful, and we were all tired and starving. Unfortunately, we had scheduled our dinner to be cooked at 9pm that night since we thought we'd arrive so much later, so Michael, Heidi, and I took a cab to the grocery store to pick up some stuff to eat.
Since this post is already ridiculously long, I think I'll talk more about our Villa and the rest of Sat. evening on the next post. Suffice it to say, we made it through our day of adventure! It was pretty exhausting trying to orchestrate the activities for a group of 13--rather more stressful than I had imagined, I'm afraid. Luckily, the rest of the week was all about relaxing and just being together.
